By the mid-12th century, the shoes had become more round heeled and notably waisted. There is a brief period in here where there was a bit of a vogue first for pointed toes, which during the reign of William II in Britain became exaggerated in their length. Although the pointed shoes remained on some shoes, the exaggerated point style faded away, gradually moving to the east. More important was the introduction of a welt, sometimes now called a rand, sewn into the seam between the upper and the sole. It is possible that both the welt and the pointed toes were introduced by Crusaders who had seen them in the Near East, although this is speculative. In some places the top band was replaced by the regular use of a leather binding stitch along the top edge, to strengthen and reinforce the edge. On the Continent, however, and especially in the Empire, the top band remained through out this period.
Iit may be, though, that the most important development in shoes of the 12th Century "little Renaissance" was the gradual professionalization of the craft into guilds or "mysteries". It is during this time that the term "Cordwainer" came to refer to the use of Cordwain, or Cordoban leather, and was later to became so associated with shoes that the terms for the material and the shoemaker became intertwined. The Cordwain / Cordoban / Cordovan leather first came from the skin of the Moufflon sheep, later goat skin, died cow hide. Previous to this time, for instance, the shoemaker often had to prepare his hides (Most often sheep, goat and calf) himself. Archaeological evidence suggests that in the 12th century a professional division of labor had taken place.
In any case, ideally shoemakers are not cobblers -- they are shoemakers, bootmakers, chaucers or cordwainers or any one of many terms. Cobblers, on the other hand, are restricted to using previously worked material, and so only FIX shoes.
It appears from the large numbers of shoes ordered during the 13th century and on, that there was some form of mass production in "readymade" shoes, as opposed to the traditional "bespoke" shoes made for specific individuals. What this meant for sizes is not clear, although three different prices given at this time suggest at least three basic sizes.
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BETA